You have the leftovers ready, the plate is in the microwave, you hit “Start,” the light comes on, the fan whirs, and the turntable spins. Everything looks right, but 90 seconds later, your food is still stone cold. The microwave is running, but it is not heating.
In this guide, we are going to walk you through the inner workings of your microwave, focusing on what happens when the heat goes missing. We will cover the seven most common causes and microwave troubleshoot methods, from simple switch checks to replacing the major electrical players. a lethal charge even when unplugged.
Why Your Microwave Isn’t Heating
When your microwave runs but does not heat, it means the low-voltage components (the fan, the light, the control board, and the turntable motor) are working, but the high-voltage heating circuit is interrupted. The most common causes will be:
- A faulty door switch, which tells the microwave it is safe to turn on the high-voltage.
- A burned-out magnetron, which cannot generate the waves.
- A failed diode or capacitor, which can stop the necessary high voltage from reaching the magnetron.
If the issue is a simple door switch or thermal fuse, a handy beginner can likely handle the job. If the issue involves the high-voltage side (magnetron, capacitor, diode, transformer), you should only proceed if you are experienced with electrical work and understand the severe safety risks involved.
Essential Safety Precautions Before You Start Repairing Microwave
This section is critical and should be read by everyone attempting a repair.
- Unplug the microwave Completely: Always disconnect the power cord from the wall outlet.
- Discharge the High-Voltage Capacitor (CRITICAL): This component can store thousands of volts for hours or even days after the microwave is unplugged. You must safely discharge it before touching any internal parts. Do use an insulated tool (like a screwdriver with an insulated handle and a rubber grip) to short the capacitor terminals together. This will safely dissipate the stored charge.
- Wear Protective Equipment: Wear thick rubber gloves, safety glasses, and be sure you are not wearing any metal jewelry that could make contact with a live part.
- Required Tools: You will need a Phillips screwdriver, nut drivers (usually 1/4″ and 5/16″), and a multimeter capable of testing continuity, resistance (Ohms), and, ideally, capacitance.
- When NOT to Attempt Repairs: If your microwave is under warranty, opening it will void the warranty. If you do not feel 100% confident in safely discharging the capacitor, do not attempt the repair.
7 Proven Microwave Repair Methods By Appliance Busters Service Co
Method 1: Check the Door Switches
The door switches are safety interlocks. If the microwave thinks the door is open, it will prevent the high-voltage circuit from activating. There are usually three switches: a primary, a secondary, and a monitor.
Signs of Faulty Door Switches
The microwave might run with the light on and the fan going, but the turntable might not spin, or the light might not turn off when the door is closed. Sometimes, a quick slam of the door can cause the failure.
How to Test Door Switches?
- Unplug the microwave and discharge the capacitor.
- Remove the outer cabinet.
- Locate the switches near the door latch assembly.
- Remove the wires and set your multimeter to the continuity setting.
- Test the switch, with the door latch pressed (closed position), the switch should show continuity (a reading of 0 or a beep). When the latch is released (open position), it should show no continuity (OL or an open circuit).
Method 2: Test and Replace the Magnetron
The magnetron is the component that actually generates the microwaves. It is the heart of the heating system.
Signs of Magnetron Failure
Classic signs include food remaining cold while the unit runs, a loud humming or buzzing noise during operation, or an acrid burning smell, sometimes like melting plastic.
How to Test with a Multimeter?
- Unplug and discharge the capacitor.
- Locate the magnetron (it is a large, metal, finned component, often near the transformer).
- Disconnect the two electrical terminals (take a photo).
- Set your multimeter to measure resistance (Ohms).
- Test for continuity between the two terminals. A good magnetron should show a reading of less than one Ohm (typically $0.2\Omega$ to $0.8\Omega$).
- Test for shorts to the casing. Place one probe on either terminal and the other probe on the metal casing of the magnetron. The reading should be infinite resistance (OL). Any reading other than OL means the magnetron is shorted and must be replaced.
Method 3: Inspect the High-Voltage Diode
The diode is sometimes called the rectifier. It converts the AC (alternating current) power from the transformer into high-voltage DC (direct current) that the capacitor and magnetron can use. If the diode fails, the voltage will not be doubled, and the magnetron will not receive enough power to run the microwaves.
How to test the Diode?
The most reliable test is often a visual inspection. If it looks fine, the best way to test it is often by substitution, though some specialized tests do involve using a 9-volt battery in conjunction with the multimeter. If your magnetron tests good, the diode is the next most likely component to blame.
Method 4: Check the High-Voltage Capacitor
The capacitor is a powerful energy storage device that, along with the diode, is responsible for multiplying the voltage to the extreme levels needed for the magnetron. It acts as a temporary battery and charge-pump. A bad capacitor can be either open or shorted, resulting in no heat or a tripped breaker.
How to Safely Discharge and Test?
- Unplug and ALWAYS DISCHARGE the capacitor first (review the safety section).
- Disconnect the wires. Visually inspect the capacitor for signs of bulging, leaks, or burn marks.
- Set your multimeter to the capacitance setting (measured in microfarads, $\mu F$).
- Test across the terminals. The reading should match the value printed on the capacitor label (e.g., $0.90\mu F$). If the reading is significantly off, or the meter shows an open circuit or a short, it must be replaced.
Method 5: Examine the High-Voltage Transformer
The transformer steps up the household voltage to a higher AC level before it reaches the diode and capacitor. If this heavy, box-shaped component fails, it will not deliver the necessary voltage to the rest of the circuit.
How to test the transformer?
- You can test the transformer’s three windings (primary, secondary, and filament) for continuity using your multimeter’s resistance setting.
- You will need to consult your microwave’s specific service manual for the exact Ohm values, as they do vary widely by model.
Method 6: Verify the Thermal Fuse
The thermal fuse is a safety device. It will blow or “open” the circuit if the microwave begins to overheat, protecting the appliance from fire. If it is blown, the entire unit will appear dead, or just the high-voltage circuit might fail.
How to test the thermal fuse?
- Unplug and discharge the capacitor.
- The fuse is usually located near the magnetron or on the back of the microwave cavity.
- Set your multimeter to continuity.
- A good fuse will show continuity (0 Ohms/a beep). If the reading is open (OL), the fuse is the culprit and needs replacement.
Method 7: Inspect the Control Board
The control board is the electronic brain that dictates the timing and controls the relays, which send power to the other components. To detect the cause, look closely at the board for any scorch marks, bulging capacitors on the board, or signs of burned relays.
Best Microwave Repair in Fort Worth, TX
If you are finding trouble to troubleshoot the microwave yourself, it is time to call a professional. At Appliance Busters Service Co, we provide affordable microwave repair in Fort Worth, TX. We are your local experts for all home appliance repair, specializing in getting your kitchen equipment back to peak performance. Our microwave repair mechanics are trained to safely diagnose and replace the high-voltage components, ensuring your unit is fixed correctly and safely.
Do not risk your safety or a trip to the emergency room. If your microwave is running but not heating, give the professional microwave repair company that Fort Worth trusts a call. We will provide an honest assessment and get you back to enjoying hot food fast!
It is a common and deeply annoying problem, especially here in Fort Worth, where a functioning washer is essential to keep up with the demands of Texas living.
A front-load washer that smells bad and refuses to drain is essentially unusable. Before you pull out the credit card for a costly replacement, we at Appliance Busters Service Co. want to walk you through the diagnosis. We have been helping Tarrant County residents with these exact issues for years, and we know that many times, the fix is simpler and cheaper than you might think.
Let us figure out what is causing the swamp in your laundry room and whether a professional repair is the smartest move for your machine.
The Stink and The Standing Water: Front-load washers are fantastic, but they are also notorious for trapping moisture. The stink is almost always caused by one of two things:
The Gasket (The Boot): The large rubber seal around the door is designed to trap water to prevent leaks. Unfortunately, it also traps lint, hair, unused detergent, and moisture. This moist organic buildup is a perfect breeding ground for mildew and mold.
Drain Pump Filter: Every front-load washer has a filter, usually near the bottom front, that catches coins, keys, pet hair, and lint before it reaches the pump. If this filter is never cleaned, the debris will rot and will cause a truly horrendous odor that can spread throughout the washer.
Drain Failure: If your washer fills with water but will not enter the spin cycle or will not empty, the drainage system is failing. The primary reason of failure are:
- Drain Pump Motor: The motor itself can fail electrically or mechanically. It might burn out, or debris might be jamming the impeller.
- Drain Hose: The hose running from the washer to the standpipe (or utility sink) can be kinked or, worse, clogged deep inside with solidified detergent and sludge.
The Quick Fixes: DIY Troubleshooting to Drain Your Washer Tub
Before you call for washing machine repair in Fort Worth, TX, try these steps. You should start by tackling the standing water.
Emergency Manual Drain
- Do not open the door while it is full.
- Drain pump filter is usually hidden behind a small access panel at the bottom front of the machine.
- Lay towels and have a shallow pan ready. A good amount of water is going to come out.
- There might be a small drain hose next to the filter cap. Use this hose to slowly empty the water into your pan. If there is not a hose, you will need to slowly unscrew the filter cap, catching the water as it gushes out. This is messy, but essential.
Clean the Pump Filter
Once the water is drained, remove the filter completely. Clean off all the lint, hair, and foreign objects (we have found everything from coins to small toys). Scrub it with an old toothbrush under warm water. Reinstall it tightly.
De-Stink the Gasket
With the tub empty, open the door and pull back the rubber boot (gasket) all the way around. You will find trapped sludge. Wipe it out thoroughly. After that, run a small rag soaked in a 10% bleach solution (or white vinegar for mold-sensitive machines) around the entire inner lip of the gasket. Leave it for a few minutes, then wipe dry.
Run a Cleaning Cycle
Run the washer empty on the hottest setting with either a cup of white vinegar or a specialty washer cleaner. This will flush the internal lines and hopefully will clear any minor blockages further down the drain hose.
When You Should Call for Washer Dryer Repair Expert in Fort Worth TX
If you have cleared the filter and have run a hot cycle, but the washer still refuses to drain or spin, the problem is electrical or mechanical. This is when you should reach out to us for washer dryer repair in Fort Worth, TX.
Failed Drain Pump Motor: This is the most common professional repair. The motor might have simply burned out, or the impeller might be seized. A technician can test the motor for continuity and voltage. If the motor is receiving power but is not running, it needs to be replaced. This is usually an accessible and relatively affordable repair.
Faulty Lid Lock or Door Latch: Front-load washers will not spin or drain on high speed unless the door is locked for safety. If the latch assembly (which contains a sensor) has failed, the machine thinks the door is open and will halt the cycle mid-drain. This is a common fix that requires disassembling the front panel.
Control Board or Pressure Switch: These are less common but more complex issues.
- Pressure Switch: This sensor tells the board how much water is in the tub. If it is stuck on “full,” the washer will not start the spin or drain cycle, even if the water is gone.
- Control Board: If the main electronic board has a failed relay, it might not be sending power to the drain pump at the right time. This is the most expensive component failure.
Is It Worth Repairing Your Front-Load Washer?
This is the crux of the issue. You do not want to spend $400 on a repair only to have the transmission fail next year. Here is how to make that decision in Fort Worth by looking at the age of the machine:
- Under 7 Years Old: Almost always worth repairing. A new drain pump is far cheaper than a new washer, and the machine has plenty of life left.
- 7 to 10 Years Old: This is the sweet spot for the decision. If the repair is under $300, it is probably worth it. If the repair requires a new motor or a control board (over $450), you should strongly consider replacement.
- Over 10 Years Old: Be highly selective. Unless the fix is simple (like a gasket or a drain hose), a major part replacement should be avoided. The bearings, which are expensive to replace, are likely nearing failure.
How to keep the Stink and the Stops Away
- Once we have repaired your machine, you can keep it running smoothly with these simple maintenance tips:
- After every wash, leave the washer door and the detergent dispenser slightly ajar. This allows air to circulate and dries out the drum and the gasket, which stops mold growth.
- Over-using the detergent is a major source of sludge that clogs, filters and coats the drum. Use the minimum amount of High Efficiency (HE) detergent required.
- Make it a habit every three months to drain the washer and clean the pump filter thoroughly. This is your single best defense against clogs and odors.
- Run a cycle on the hottest setting with either white vinegar or bleach to clear out bacteria and detergent residue from the internal hoses.
Washer Dryer Repair Service in Fort Worth, TX
If the quick fixes have not solved your problem, or if you have diagnosed the issue as needing a major part replacement like a new pump or a latch assembly, it is time for professional help. At Appliance Busters Service Co, we make booking easy. Skip the guesswork and the risk of ordering the wrong part. Simply call us or fill out our online form to schedule a visit from one of our expert home appliance mechanics right here in Fort Worth. We will quickly diagnose the failure, provide an honest repair quote, and get your washing machine running efficiently again, often on the very first visit.
You hear it the moment you turn the oven dial, meanwhile, dinner plans are falling apart and you are wondering whether you need to call someone or if there is a quick fix you can handle yourself.
Let us walk you through what is happening inside your oven, what is causing the problem, and how to troubleshoot it safely. We have seen hundreds of these cases here in Fort Worth, and most folks are surprised to learn how simple the fix can be.
What Is Actually Happening When Your Oven Clicks
That clicking noise is your oven’s igniter trying to create a spark. In a gas oven, the igniter creates a spark near the burner while gas flows out. When everything works correctly, the spark ignites the gas within a second or two, and you get a nice blue flame.
When the clicking continues without ignition, it means the spark is happening but something is preventing the actual lighting. A weak igniter that cannot draw enough power, gas that is not flowing properly, or burner ports that are too clogged for the gas to reach the spark.
Understanding this helps you troubleshoot smarter. You are essentially looking for a break in this chain: power to igniter, then spark creation, then gas flow, then ignition.
What You Need to Know Before Troubleshooting
If you smell gas at any point, and I mean a strong, persistent odor, you need to stop what you are doing. Do not flip light switches or use your phone near the oven. Get everyone out of the house and call your gas company or 911 from outside. Gas leaks are rare, but they are serious when they happen.
For basic oven troubleshooting, you will want a flashlight, some basic screwdrivers, and maybe a wire brush. If you are planning to test components, a multimeter helps but is not absolutely necessary for the visual checks I will describe.
The Three Main Reasons Your Oven Will Not Light
Problem #1: The Igniter Is Weak or Failing
The igniter needs to draw enough electrical current to open the gas safety valve. A weak igniter will glow (sometimes quite brightly) but will not pull enough amperage to open that valve. So you get the click, you might even see a glow, but no gas flows and nothing lights.
You can spot a failing igniter a few ways. If it glows dim or orange instead of bright white, it is weak. If it takes more than 30 seconds to light, it is on its way out. And if you have had your oven for several years and have not replaced the igniter yet, odds are good this is your problem.
How to fix it?
You will need to remove the oven floor or bottom panel (usually just a couple of screws), disconnect the old igniter, and plug in a new one. Parts run about $20 to $50 online, and the job takes maybe 30 minutes if you are going slow. Many Fort Worth homeowners handle this themselves, though calling someone like us at Appliance Busters Service Co for an oven repair is always an option if you would rather not mess with it.
Problem #2: Gas Is Not Flowing Properly
Sometimes the igniter is fine, but gas is not reaching the burner. Start with the obvious: check if your cooktop burners work. If they light normally, your main gas supply is fine and the problem is specific to the oven.
The gas valve behind your oven should be fully open. The handle should run parallel to the gas line, not perpendicular. I have seen cases where someone bumped it while cleaning or it was not fully reopened after maintenance.
Less commonly, the gas safety valve inside the oven can fail. This valve is designed to prevent gas flow unless the igniter is hot enough. When it malfunctions, it will not open even with a good igniter. Testing this typically requires a professional because you are dealing with gas line components, and honestly, it is not something I would recommend tackling without experience.
Low gas pressure from your utility company can also cause issues, though this is rare. If none of your gas appliances are working properly, a call to your gas provider is warranted.
Problem #3: Clogged or Dirty Burner Ports
Food spills, grease buildup, and plain old dust can block the tiny ports where gas exits the burner. Even if gas is flowing and your igniter is sparking, clogged ports mean the gas cannot reach the spark.
Pull out your oven racks and look at the burner assembly at the bottom of the oven. See those small holes along the burner tube? Those are the ports. If they look crusty or blocked, that is your problem.
Cleaning them is simple but tedious. You will want a small wire brush or even a straightened paperclip to gently clear each port. Some people use compressed air afterward to blow out debris. Just be gentle. You do not want to damage the ports or make them bigger.
While you are down there, clean around the igniter itself. Grease and debris on the igniter can cause weak sparks or prevent proper ignition.
When to Call a Oven Repair Professional in Fort Worth
Some repairs are genuinely DIY-friendly. Replacing an igniter? Cleaning burner ports? Most handy homeowners can tackle these. But there are times when calling Appliance Busters Service Co. or another qualified appliance repair service makes sense.
If you have replaced the igniter and cleaned everything and it still will not light, the problem is probably the gas valve or spark module. Both of which involve either gas lines or complex electrical components. These are not good DIY territory.
If you are uncomfortable working around gas, that is completely reasonable. There is no shame in calling someone who does this every day. And if your oven is older and having multiple issues, a professional can assess whether repair makes sense or if replacement is the smarter investment.
Conclusion
A gas oven that clicks but will not light is frustrating, but it is rarely a catastrophic problem. Most often, you are looking at a weak igniter that needs replacing or burner ports that need cleaning. Both are manageable fixes. Even when the problem is more complex, like a faulty gas valve, it is usually repairable at a reasonable cost.
If you have tried the basic troubleshooting steps and your gas oven still will not light, or if you would rather leave the repair to experienced professionals, Appliance Busters Service Co. is here to help. Our team specializes in oven repair in Fort Worth, TX.
We have helped countless homeowners solve clicking igniter problems quickly and affordably. We understand how inconvenient a broken oven can be, which is why we offer prompt service and transparent pricing.
Whether it is a simple igniter replacement or a more complex gas valve issue, our oven repair experts in Fort Worth, TX can diagnose and fix the problem right the first time. Do not let a malfunctioning oven disrupt your daily routine. Contact Appliance Busters Service Co. today to schedule your home appliance repair and we will have your kitchen back up and running in no time.
We have all been there. You walk into the kitchen for a cold drink, open the fridge, and it feels suspiciously like room temperature. Or perhaps you have stepped in a mysterious puddle of water right in front of the freezer.
If you are staring at a warm fridge or a leaking freezer, do not panic just yet. As a local home appliance repair team here at Appliance Busters Service Co, we have seen just about every issue a Whirlpool unit can throw at you. Before you rush out to buy a new appliance, let us walk through what might be going wrong. You might be surprised at how many issues you can solve with a little know-how (and possibly a screwdriver).
Why Is the Whirlpool Refrigerator Not Working?
Diagnosing a fridge is a lot like being a detective. The symptoms usually do tell you exactly where to look. Here are the most common complaints we do hear from homeowners around Tarrant County.
- The fridge isn’t cooling, but the freezer is fine. This is often caused by a blocked damper or a failed evaporator fan.
- There’s water pooling on the floor. It is usually a clog issue. The defrost drain, which should carry melted frost away, does get plugged up with food debris or ice, forcing water to overflow.
- The ice maker stopped making ice. It could be a jammed feeder arm, a frozen fill tube, or a water filter that is so old it is choking off the water pressure.
- Strange Noises such as clicking, humming and buzzing. It’s a fan blade hitting a chunk of ice and the compressor trying to start and failing.
DIY Quick Fixes You Can Try Before Calling a Home Appliance Mechanic
- The Hard Reset: This will clear the error memory and will reset the control board. Plug it back in and listen; if it does start up normally, you might be in the clear.
- Clean the Condenser Coils: If condenser cells are covered in pet hair and dust, the fridge cannot cool down. Vacuum them off. You will hear the fridge “sigh” with relief.
- Clear the Vents: If you shoved a pizza box or a bag of spinach directly against the air vents in the back of the fridge, you are blocking the airflow. Move items a few inches away from the back wall.
- Flush the Defrost Drain: If you do have water inside the fridge, find the drain hole and try squirting hot water into it with a turkey baster. This can melt minor ice blockages instantly.
DIY Whirlpool Fridge Repair Techniques
If the quick fixes did not work, you might need to replace a part. The good news: Whirlpool parts are widely available and relatively easy to swap out if you are handy.
- Replacing the Start Relay
If all you hear is that annoying “click-buzz-click” noise, and your fridge is starting to get a bit too warm, it’s likely the compressor’s fine but the Start Relay has gone belly-up. These are the steps to fix it:
- Just pull the fridge out and take the lower back panel off.
- On the side of the compressor (looks like a big black box), there’s a wee plastic box. Unplug the wires, give the old relay a kick and swap it for a new one. It’ll only take you 10 minutes and can save you hundreds of dollars.
- Changing the Evaporator Fan Motor
If your freezer is sounding like it’s about to take off (screeching or groaning), the fan motor is on its last legs. Here’s how to fix it:
- Inside the freezer, there’s a hiding behind the back wall panel.
- You’ll need a 1/4″ nut driver for this one. Take out the shelves, unscrew the back panel, unplug the fan harness and swap the old motor for a new one.
- Installing a New Water Inlet Valve
If your water dispenser is dripping or the ice maker’s not getting any water, it’s probably because the solenoid valve has got stuck. Follow these steps to fix it:
- At the bottom rear of the fridge, you will find the house water line hooks up.
- Switch off the water supply, disconnect the tubes and unscrew the valve.
- Replace it and one tip: cut the end off the plastic water tube before you stick it back on to ensure a nice and seal it tightly.
Fridge Repair Services in Fort Worth, TX
We do love fixing things at Appliance Busters, but we also do believe in honesty. Sometimes, throwing money at an old fridge is not the right move.
When should you repair an old fridge?
- Sealed System Leak: If you do smell chemicals or do see an oily residue on the floor, you might have a refrigerant leak.
- Age: If the fridge is over 15 years old and does need a major part (like a control board or compressor), it is usually time to upgrade. Newer models are significantly more energy-efficient.
- Rust: Once the frame or doors do start rusting through, the insulation is compromised.
Call us or fill out our online form to schedule a visit from one of our expert home appliance mechanics right here in Fort Worth. We will quickly diagnose the failure, provide an honest repair quote, and get your Whirlpool running efficiently again, often on the very first visit.
Essential Maintenance Tips to Prevent Future Breakdowns
Here is how to keep your Whirlpool running in the Texas heat for years to come.
- Change the Filter Every 6 Months: A clogged filter does strain the water pump. If you do have “hard water” here in Fort Worth, you might need to change it sooner.
- Vacuum the Coils Yearly: Do make this a spring cleaning habit. Clean coils do mean lower electric bills and a longer-lasting compressor.
- Check the Door Leveling: If your doors do not close automatically when you walk away, your legs do need adjusting. The front of the fridge should be slightly higher than the back so gravity does help the doors seal shut.
Frequently Asked Questions About Whirlpool Fridge Repair
Is it worth fixing a 10-year-old Whirlpool refrigerator?
Yes, usually. Whirlpool parts are affordable and the machines are durable. Unless the compressor is blown, a repair is typically cheaper than a new unit.
How do I reset my Whirlpool refrigerator control board?
Unplug the unit or flip the circuit breaker for 5-10 minutes. When you turn it back on, do ensure the “Cooling On” function is selected on the keypad.
Why is there ice on the back wall of my freezer?
This does indicate a defrost system failure. The heater that should melt the frost is not turning on, or the thermostat that does trigger it is dead.
Best Fridge Repair Experts in Fort Worth TX
At Appliance Busters Service Co, we are proud to be your local offering fridge repair in Fort Worth TX. We focus 100% on keeping residential homes running smoothly. Do not let your food spoil. Do give us a call today to schedule a refrigerator diagnosis. We will tell you exactly what is wrong and whether it is worth fixing.
